WAN HUNG | AW17

by Tabitha Carver


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Fashion January 8, 2017

On the second day of this season’s London Menswear offerings, Wan Hung made his formal debut at the BFC Showspace with a stunning presentation named ‘Good Fortune!’.

Arriving early, the space was already heaving. Models switched between standing motionless amongst the invitees and taking their place on a mini-mock runway against a backdrop themed along the focus of this season: the unique Haianese New Year celebrations in China.

The collection is an interesting blend of traditional Chinese Tang suit robes and Western tailoring, and the result is a sublime combination of pieces in dark navy tones, white, pinks and the red, subtly reminiscent of the palette traditional to the Chinese New Year celebrations.

Standout pieces included a dreamy pale pink rubberised PVC jacket and pants, along with Wu Hang’s take on double-denim featuring a dark wash made from Portuguese fabric.

I managed to exchange some words with the designer himself about the inspiration behind the collection and what was important to him about it.

The collection is strongly influenced by memories from his native Hainan island in China, including the traditional Chinese Tang suit robes and memories of of making seafood together as a family. All the fabrics were handcrafted by the team while the patterning repeated in a number of pieces (including backpacks) were developed from the Kanji for Good Luck: 福.

Wan Hung explained that the accessories are evocative of the Chinese knotting often used to make good luck charms  (two large-scale charms added to the backdrop for the models). My favourite part about the collection was the shoes: gorgeously platformed with block heels, they brought every look together in black and white. He told me they were inspired by a memory of his father gifting him a pair of silver heels at New Years when he was younger. That had been so surprising and remarkable for the time that the memory had stuck with him and encouraged him to include these shoes in the collection.

This fond memory combined with others created one of my favourite collections this season. Having graduated from Central St Martins in 2014 and already presenting his collections at the main British Fashion Council show space, we can’t wait to see more.



Words: TABITHA CARVER | WRITER | @TABITHACARVER

Images: HUW JENKINS | PHOTOGRAPHER | @HUWLTD

 



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