Liam Hodges created a dystopian world packed full of sci-fi references for his audience this season for AW17. Known for his patchwork, post-punk and hardwearing work wear, his latest collection played to his strengths and demonstrated an array of his skills as well as a post apocalyptic theme.
Joining forces with Hector Aponysus, the performance poet, a line rings true throughout the show appropriately titled Dystopia Lives. “Looking for a vocation in the decline of civilization” is especially poignant as we say goodbye to the end of the particularly dreadful year, also known as 2016. The collection, along with the poetry speak to a world where nothing makes sense and that we find ourselves more aligned with dystopian fiction due to “the decline of civilization”.
There are strong influences throughout the collection, which shed new light on what the clothes are intending to portray. The film, Total Recall carries significant weight when comparing the collections title “Dystopia Lives” with the Kuato Lives graffiti from the film. Under the oppressive leadership the graffiti is a rebellious act against their leader, Dystopia Lives can therefore be seen as a act of defiance but also that “darkness can be beat”. It’s this rebellious thread that runs through the collection with motifs and embroidery “Ideology is a myth”, leading us to imagine a dystopian, end of the world, Mad Max era.
There were also aspects of Chinese culture represented in photographs that Liam took himself, as in many ways the UK looks to follow China especially in the next century. There are also influences of punk which can be seen in his print of the Total Recall character of Mary, (a triple breasted sex worker), the print is reminiscent of the Seditionaries’ Tits tee, connoting ideas of anti-establishment rebellion.
The colour palette is somewhat warlike with a lot of camouflage and khaki colours as well as acid greens and yellows and olive colours. The pieces can also be deconstructed, as there are removable pockets in the trousers. Liam’s signature knit is present in different forms and the durable materials only add to the post apocalyptic feel.
It’s easy to see why his designs have doubled in stockists in the last six months alone and this season really focused in one what works well for his brand. The collaborations which have come together to make this collection are what makes it special, such as the partnership between Christy’s to create a hat in the style of the droogs in A Clockwork Orange.
The brand already has a huge following as well as huge name fans such as Drake and P.Diddy. With his use of clever individual street casting the show was diverse and alluring to watch. Here’s to the end of the world.
Words: Gabriella Tavani, @gabriellatavani