Baggy silhouettes and innovative monocles make up the Autumn/Winter 18 collection for fashion duo Danshan.
Danshan is the creative brand born from two designers: a female Danxia Liu, and a male Shanpeng Wong. Dan, from China, completed her design course at Central Saint Martins in 2012 and Shan, from Hong Kong, also completed this same course in womenswear design in 2012. Together, they moved away from studies and away from the womenswear industry to create a menswear brand that celebrated their observations of how rapid gender dynamics are becoming.
This season, Danshan give their audience a whole load to focus on for their Autumn/Winter 18 presentation showcased at London Fashion Week Mens. Titled ‘Progressing Towards Defined Tenderness’, Danshan gives us an insight into their world of a better place through the means of fashion. They aimed to explore how they feel tenderness in masculinity would appear if they were to be wearing it – after all, every designer speaks freely through their designs. Whether we follow suit and view the collection with one eye shut and the other through a rose-tinted monocle, or simply take as much in as we can with both wide open, is up to us.
Oversized worker jackets in fluorescent orange detailed with hi-vis taping caught the attention it demanded from all. This jacket was incorporated perfectly with its sibling, an equally oversized jacket in orange check with the hi-vis taping down the seams of the arms. Many of the collection had touches of this hi-vis, whether it was the main feature of the garment or a detail that could easily be overlooked. Orange is a popular colour throughout the lineup, creating a colour palette alongside browns, beiges, rich blues, shades of grey and splashes of red and purple.
Everything is accentuated, from the ruffled gathering of the jacket’s neckline and the roll necks of the heavy workwear jumpers to the triple cuffs on the tracksuit and most noticeably, the exaggerated box sleeves that almost double up as bags on each arm of the beige outerwear piece. These box details continue on the matching trousers, making a fairly robotic attire for the slim-lined model that sits inside the shell.
We adore how Danshan have taken to using accessories that mean more than meets the eye (pardon the pun). Their monocles were designed to sit on a frame as opposed to being held in a squinted eye. These round monocules are tinted in ‘feminine’ colours of purples, blues and pinks, and we can only imagine that Danshan has put the metaphor of rose-tinted glasses – or monocles – to the test. These truly complement the collection and adds that significant detail that ties the lineup together.
WORDS: LAUREN NOBLE | FASHION WRITER
PHOTOGRAPHS: Megan Kellythorn | PHOTOGRAPHER