Just over four years after the inception of his label, Alex Mullins presents a mature offering Autumn/Winter 2018 that’s far beyond his young brand’s years. Maybe that’s what comes from cutting your teeth at houses like Alexander McQueen, Diane von Furstenberg, and Jeremy Scott, the quiet influences of whom can all be spotted in the British designer’s work.
This season’s ideas come from a neuroscientific perspective, the designer says – a study of the left and right sides of the brain that has long had us wondering whether we’re the creative, emotional type (that’s the right), or if we’re the opposing methodical and logical kind (left, in case you’re wondering).
The soundtrack to this afternoon’s show is bursting with fittingly cerebral electro bass-beats, and as models clad vibrantly hued tie dye wares follow men clothed in contemporary boxy-shaped grey tailoring onto the catwalk, the designer’s scientific theme is exemplified.
Buttons fastenings fitted onto the reverse of jackets or placed horizontally along the waists of clinical-looking coats, and a cohesive selection of straight-fitting silhouettes represents the more analytical elements of our existence. In stark contrast comes denim with a multitude of tonal topstitching, neon orange jeans and a cutaway tie die shirt, not to mention that similarly colourful suit. There’s a rainbow tee with a matching balaclava, too, peaking out from underneath a charcoal-grey corduroy co-ord for a pleasingly tactile outfit.
Perhaps in a nod to our more chaotic cerebrations, the designer’s self-snapped imagery of smashed ceramics is digitally printed onto poplin in a very literal deconstruction of motifs and muses from his previous collections.
Mullins has somehow found an equilibrium in his shattered prints, trippy kaleidoscopic suits and power-shouldered tailoring. Amongst this explosion of ideas you’ll also find those mandatory classic wearable pieces, too, but designed with no less consideration than the rest of this offering.
Words: AMY MILES | WRITER | @amymiles_