Jiri Kalfar’s SS19 catwalk show transported us back to the dark underground clubs of the 1970s; inspired by Studio 54, Brigitte Bardot, David Bowie and Ziggy Stardust, Kalfar’s creations show a time of decadence and change.
The brand’s aesthetic has always been one of luxury and high octane glamour; SS19 saw reinterpreted 70’s silhouettes inspired by disco fever, with glam frocks and separates embellished in sequins and embroidered silks, as well as Kalfar’s signature brocades. Corsets, collars, and showstopping evening wear dazzled in the designer’s much-loved decadent royal hues.
Kalfar is committed to minimising the impact of fashion on our planet; his designs have always incorporated sustainabilty without sacrificing glamour. SS19 was created using zero waste patterns, recycled sequins, and upcycled garments. Each piece in this collection was handmade in the Czech Republic without the use of fur and leather; innovative textiles were utilised including mushroom leather in conjunction with hand embroidery to create a true luxury product.
Dazzling midnight blues, burnished chocolate browns, bold red satin, and shimmering gold formed the basis of the collection. Sequins were multi tonal, with shades of royal, cobalt, and azure catching the light as models strutted down the catwalk.
In intricate embellishments of head to toe midnight blue paillettes on a jumpsuit, or a pencil skirt paired with a top embroidered with fluttering spring flowers, SS19 was full of statement patterns and shimmer. Suit jackets for women and men were cut from Kalfar’s signature brocades, combining a waistcoat of burnished copper accents with deepest midnight blue. A bustier had an element of the unexpected in an earthy brown, heavily gilded with metallic thread and worn over a jewel and bead encrusted sheer layer. Silhouettes are slim, nipped in at the waist with a hint of an a-line skirt or a flared trouser in textured gold, whilst a model in a heavily jewelled corset sported a studded royal blue collar with “Eco not ego” spelled out in crystals.
The brand also collaborated with Czech designer Oldrich Voyta this season to create a line of eco-friendly and sustainable leather-free shoes from an innovative natural material formed from corn and wood.
Words: LUCIE DHOG | WRITER
Photography: ANNEMARIE STERIAN
Location: Freemasons Hall