Cottweiler | AW19

by Hannah Broad


Fashion January 16, 2019

“Yes fashion, I do think you’re insanely cooler than me, but, did you really need to tell before I even got there?”

That was feeling that greeted me when the email bidding me to attend Cottweiler’s A/W 2019 show. The invitation featured a gushing, pyramided public urinal, placed in the great outdoors; Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty said “…wanted to explore the affects that technology has had on human face-to-face interaction. It looked to traditional masculine dress codes from the sportswear worn in their native Essex and Bristol hometowns and, the notes say ‘the lost art of cruising.”

This season, sportswear was inspired by “the lost art of cruising.” Yep, you heard right. Sports can be sexy. Golfers wore a glove draped candidly in the waist of suede trousers. Models peeked outunderneath driving caps with nods to the Mercedes symbol. merging of tech, sport and fetish.

The collection weaves a socially aware narrative, merging tech, sport and fetishism to deliver pieces representing the politics of sex in an age where relationships are rarely reality and translated into a range of smart tracksuits, techy outerwear and waterproof protection. Reebok made an appearance showing socks with reflective strips at the back. Zips darted diagonally across the pelvis. Standout were the hand-dyed merino shearling track pants and roomy parka. The textures were all from a sci-fi, digital utopia.

The crowning glory of the show was a capsule collection of 10 raincoats made with the Italian outerwear specialist Allegri. Each had a base layer similar to a wet suit with an outer shell in sports nylon. The pieces were inspired by the 1988 film Le Grand Bleu directed by Luc Besson with a focus on activities related to the deep sea, from diving to underwater sports like spear-fishing, and will be shown as part of Pitti Uomo 95.

Consider my socks knocked off.

Writer | Daisy Sells| Blog

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