Xu Zhi by Xuzhi Chen was a collection that had both men and women in the presentation and created a choreographed dance piece rather than a runway. The audience became part of a story that was told through the collection as well as the dancers themselves. Creating the story of a cafe where strangers come and go, they meet briefly and the only thing they have in common is that they are wearing Xu Zhi AW19.
Created by using an actual box, (or cafe), the models took turns to go in and sit and interact with each other whilst a pianist played directly behind them. The box itself was a mesh material which allowed the packed room to move around and see in.
The choreography was seamless and each model took their turn before walking the room to show their outfit. With a lot of faux fur, the creations were designed to create anonymity for the wearer. Using layers to distort what you see in the outfits, Xuzhi wanted to blur the lines of reality.
The fabrics range from denim, wool and knit and the crimped fringing detail as well as the faux fur hats, created a dynamic collection that was really interesting to watch.
Xuzhi Chen is a Central Saint Martins graduate known for combining traditional Chinese craftsmanship with Western influences. Working with JD.com, the AW19 collection is the third collaboration and will be stocked by the largest retailer in China. There is also going to be a capsule collection with JD.com later in the year.
Images: SIMRAN KANDA | INSTAGRAM @simmykanda