Designer Jolin Wu returned to London for the first time in 10 years, with her hugely successful show on Day 2 of London Fashion Week. Inspired by the film Blade Runner, the designer sent an androgynous, detailed collection down the catwalk, filled with ethereal garments with a streetwear twist. Highlights included a knee-length black hoodie with lace insets, and a sheer tulle embellished dress, styled over an ankle grazing, full silver skirt.
With her extensive CV, this experience stood Wu in good stead for establishing her own brand, which she did in 2008 back in Taipei. Focusing on womenswear, Wu largely reinvents the look of her collections each year, oscillating from dreamy romanticism to sport-luxe functionality; the common thread from collection to collection is her use of clever tailoring and elegant basic forms that speak to modern Taiwanese femininity.
Inspired by fashion the iconic Maison Margiela, Jolin Wu took up fashion at the prestigious Central Saint Martins and launched the Taipei based label after interning at Alexander McQueen. Her eponymous decade-old label is known for producing hand-sewn details on garments which appear both edgy yet refined. For this 10th anniversary collection, Wu took inspiration from the imagery, dialogues and music of the iconic 1982 sci-fi film Blade Runner.
Each of Wu’s garments were constructed intricately to represent the minute details of the Blade Runner film that create an intensely memorable visual. The styling of a neon green checkered coat with black vinyl trousers appeared interestingly mismatched, and a series of oversized hoodies, slouchy trousers and printed pantsuits were paired with velvet polo necks and lace camisoles.
A notable constant aspect throughout the collection was the vibrant striped calf-length socks and equally vibrant sporty footwear.
There was no holding back as the designer experimented with a vivid and varied colour palette throughout the collection. There were colour blocks motifs of red and grey, electric blue, beige with neon green and olive and these were finished with accents of pastel pink and crossover geometric drawstring bags in purple and brown. Similarly to the uniquely coloured tones selected, every model had distinctive make-up and hairstyles that screamed individuality.
The models were wore wet hairstyles which felt natural, completed with a low ponytail and wind-blown fringes. The finale included 3 models wearing off-white slip dresses, with one model carrying a huge glowing ivory ball. This prop referred to the central concept of the collection being that ‘the crescent moon and the stars are riot.’
The idea of the beauty of natural elements being at war sums up why this collection perfectly embodies the paradoxical idea of elegance and rebellion. Wu said that the AW19 collection is about how she imagines the future would be and if this is true, we very much are looking forward to it.
From this collection of mismatched textures and colours, we believe the future will be fashionably unapologetic and free of rules. We can’t wait the see what this talented designer brings to the table over the next decade.
Caroline Hajny | Photographer |@CAROLINE HAJNY