It was party time last week as J.Lindeberg debuted its Spring/Summer 2020 collection (fashionably late) in London, revealing Chapter 4/5 of ‘future.archive’: ‘sub.culture’.
The ‘future.archive’ brand concept, introduced by creative director Jens Werner, is a journey which spans five seasons and portrays the brand’s future direction, clashing sport and fashion, tradition and tech, classics and innovation. J.Lindeberg hosted an intimate event on June 27 to present the ss20 collection in its new showroom in London.
Chapter 4 of ‘future.archive’- ‘sub.culture’ is partly inspired by a modern interpretation of the 1960’s subculture of ‘Mods’ and the clash of British tradition and Swedish innovation.
“ss20 tells a story of the way certain cultural movements substitute others and how something subversive becomes mainstream, later passé and in the end returning as ”cool” in new subcultures – how cultures within a culture evolve and offshoot into something else. The Mods movement is an interesting representation of this – the attitude and confidence of a few personalities that influenced the style and dress code for decades.” Jens Werner says.
Key new styles are the oversized, reinterpreted classic fishtail ‘Mods’ Parka, Trench and Car Coats, Elongated Bomber and Suit Jackets, polo shirts and button- ups. This season reworks the brand’s classic silhouettes, especially in outerwear, with new technical fabrics, new trim solutions and more volume silhouettes. The ss20 knitwear includes a newly developed yarn in a wool and Coolmax blend that allows chunky yarns in summer with the function of cooling. Another seasonal highlight is the ‘Twiggy Runner’, built on an advanced, comfortable, chunky vibrant outsole.
With collections ranging from fashion to golf and ski, the brand itself has subcultures in a way, which Werner has brought together in different ways throughout the series, from the use of technical fabrics clashed with traditional executions to more literal sport references.
The collection includes a sub-theme: ‘from fame to no appreciation.’ The concept demonstrates Werner’s standpoint on the fashion system, the pace of trends and collections today, ‘show’ vs ‘commercial;’ considering how long something new lasts in culture – when it’s old news or ‘archive.’ It includes an art series with exclusive behind the scenes photography from previous runway collections, available as prints on T-shirts, hoodies, shirts and accessories. These new limited-edition items reframe some of the most iconic moments and styles of past collections, for a longer lasting appreciation — a new garment celebrating an ‘old’ one.
Daisy Sells | WRITER