Traffic was not on our side on Saturday 14th September. As the press bus finally stationed outside St Cyprian’s church in Marylebone, we dashed inside to find a full congregation of guests waiting in anticipation for the exposition to begin. Struck by the regal gold leafed interior and giant organs as I fussed to find a seat among the waiting guests, excitement instantly rose within as I began to imagine the most majestic and monarch inspired collection. My A2 seat had already been taken by an eager watcher so I disinclined into the the only available space behind a pillar just as the show began whilst ecstatic to be the first person to cover a Sharon Wauchob show for Noctis.
Though straining to look over my shoulder as the models strut by, I could instantly feel the inspiration from American photographer Saul Leiter and Italian painter Father Constantino Ruggeri– overall very clean with an emphasis on varying dimensions, composition and movement. The colours are soft hues of monochrome with injections of red, almost mirroring Saul Leiter mood board in fashion form. Elegance flowed throughout the silk trails paired with immaculate tailored detailing, fusing fantasy with à la mode. Sharon Wauchob mastered tasteful extravagance. Though whimsical, the collection was not over-done.
The show location itself was purposefully chosen to showcase the collection with it’s most natural state to push back on the current culture of waste. The models too wore barely-there makeup and effortless hair tucked behind the ears, pulling all focus to the textures and movement on the catwalk.
Exaggerated sleeves added flamboyance to sharp, traditional tailoring, giving a nod to androgyny. Vintage pieces from the BVLGARI heritage collection including some items taken from the brand’s 130 year old archive, heightened the luxury and elegance of the collection, juxtaposing practicality with a utopia of delicacy and refinement.