Leonie Mergen, one of Oxford Fashion Studio’s stars. Founded back in 2016 by the ESMOD, this Berlin high-end mens and womenswear designer delivered pure german craftsmanship for OFS’ third show of the day at London Fashion Week.
Sat in the circle stalls with a 7 o’Clock view, the slow ambient techno began and we were ready. Leonie Mergen’s SS20 collection entitled ‘Eternal Flame’ was well, flames. From start to finish, this collection consisted of her signature elements of clean cuts and strong silhouettes, embodying what it means to be couture. Unlike the orthodox British way of prints or bright colours for spring/summer, minimal accents of burnt orange and khaki green made it apparent what we should be wearing if we want to it the cool, Berlin way.
From design to production, everything is exclusively executed in Germany by Leonie and her team. With a heavy focus on quality control over every piece, the hard work and dedication speaks for itself. The womenswear was bold and the menswear was strong, working hand-in-hand seamlessly together. The eighteen different looks demonstrated this is a collection for ones who don’t need to be extra to be seen. It’s a collection for the ones who are simply just boss.
Additionally, Leonie collaborated with fellow German brands to add that extra edge to the collection. She even put on her Instagram story “please pay special attention to the super cool accessories.” Satin scarves from ROECKL wrapped around arms, sunglasses from Brille24 framing faces and fine jewellery from Madeleline Issing painted a picture of how this collection is supposed to be worn.
With a modern spin on military in the menswear and a city-chic edge to the womenswear, there was something special about Leonie Mergen’s collection which was obvious in the roar of applauds from the theatre at the Royal Opera House. Leonie is establishing herself as an independent designer that is a force to be reckoned with.
Melissa Santos | WRITER
Caroline Hajny | PHOTOGRAPHER